From the frame
up this is how the best Park Model is built. (Also See our
Slide Show)
During this factory tour you will watch a cabin go from a
frame to a fully built park model cabin. You will follow the cabin through
all of the different stations and see what we do and what is different about
our company. You will see fist hand why we say we build the "best park
models" in the industry.
Our standard frame is a 10" I - beam.
Axles are added depending on weight. The unit
you are following through the factory is an extremely heavy unit and has 4
axles.
Click on Picture
for larger view, then use the back button in the browser
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Our floors are
built out of 2 x 6's 16" OC and the perimeter band is a double wrapped 2 x
6. This is the first step toward giving the unit a firm structural rigidity.
An almost finished floor ready to come into the building.
The floor is insulated and all central ducting is put into place in this
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This is the
connection of the side wall to the end wall. Sandwiched between them
is the 3/4" T & G paneling.
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Frame enters
wall department. All exterior and interior walls are raised in this
section. The walls are pre-built on tables and all set at one time.
The exterior walls and some interior walls have already been paneled
at this point. This allows us to control the quality of the paneling
better and with the paneling behind the connecting walls it adds to the over
all structural rigidity.
From this angle you can see the double 2 x 4 top plate
and the bottom 2 x 4 bottom plate. All of the walls are 16" O.C. |
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When we build
the floor of our porches we don't let the pressure treated deck boards run
under the wall like some other manufacturers. This is done in case a
deck board ever needs to be replaced it can simply be unscrewed and not cut
out from underneath the wall. We use 7/8" pressure treated decking on
the floors of all our porches and when the customer requires a screened in
porch the screen is even run underneath the deck for a a secure bug free enclosure.
On a cottage that is receiving a linoleum floor we
mud the seams of the sub floor and completely sand the sub floor to minimize
anything that might cut the linoleum. This is another example of something
we do that can not be seen when the cottage is completed but is definitely
something everyone should do to give the cottage and the linoleum longevity.
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The frame is
now leaving the floor department. A moisture barrier has been put down
over the linoleum to protect it during construction. The moisture barrier
will be cut out in final finish but it will remain underneath the walls which is
another barrier from the elements in your home.
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One of the options
that we offer is the metal underbelly. Instead of using the fiber mesh
bottom board we can use a metal underbelly which acts as an almost impervious
rodent shield. It also holds the insulation better with less sag.
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Walls are secured
to the floor with 6" SIP screws every 24"
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We locate all
of the plumbing in the floor between the insulation and the sub floor.
This helps in cold weather climates to keep the plumbing from freezing.
Our standard plumbing is 40 grade PVC and Pex plumbing. http://www.ppfahome.org/pex/faqpex.html
Our Pex is also broken up by color, white for cold and red for hot.
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